South on Route 1A to Hoi An

Yesterday was another long day.  We checked out of our hotel in Hue at 8:30 to make the 4-hour drive south to Hoi An, over the Hai Van Pass, through Danang and past "China Beach,"

and stopping at the Marble Mountain caves and pagodas.

So far, despite being in one of the most hotly contested areas during the Vietnam war, we've seen almost no signs of our presence - only a couple of concrete bunkers in the Hai Van pass (to complement an ancient Vietnamese imperial watchtower and a 1950's vintage french fort), and some concrete helicopter shelters at one of the former Danang airbases.  I doubt the GI's, Marines and sailors stationed in Danang would recognize anything there now except the beautiful beaches in this busy city of high rise buildings, luxury resorts and newly developed golf courses.  I suspect the same will be true farther south where I lived.

Our guide, Ba Hanh, took us on a walking tour of Hoi An, before leaving us to our own devices in the late afternoon.  We'll miss her friendliness, good humor, knowledgable commentary and candid observations about her country. Hoi An town is charming.  It's a UNESCO World Heritage site because it contains the largest and best preserved collection of traditional houses, shops and temples in the country.  Until the Thu Bon river silted up in the 19th century, this was one of the principal trading ports in central Vietnam.  Now the river traffic is confined mainly to fishing and tourist boats.

Staying here is a little like staying in Colonial Williamsburg, apart from the exceptionally persistent vendors and the whole crowded market scene selling squid, crabs, vegetable, clothing, chickens, etc., etc.

We'll be here for a couple of days before heading farther south. Time to relax, get our laundry done and do nothing for a change.  More tomorrow or the next day and more photos on Facebook.